Latest News

Varied ingredients to incorporate in skincare formulations targeting the under eye area

Beneath the eye: Combatting dark circles and under eye concerns

Are you tired of those persistent dark circles under your eyes? The dreaded discolouration, sagging, wrinkles or “bags” in this delicate area can be frustrating and challenging to address. Dark circles result from various factors, including under-eye puffiness, volume loss, hyperpigmentation, and the visibility of blood vessels. Factors such as tears, dehydration, allergies, or sleep deprivation can exacerbate dark circles, with age further predisposing individuals to this issue as the skin becomes thinner, dehydrated and less elastic.

To effectively address under-eye concerns, it’s essential to focus on rest and lifestyle changes while utilising a range of topical remedies. Retinol and similar actives, known for stimulating collagen production and improving skin density, are valuable tools in combating dark circles. Retinaturel, produced through bio fermentation and containing retinal as a direct precursor of retinoic acid, offers a more bio-available and therefore potent form of retinol with fewer associated side effects. When combined with gentle Hyaluronic acid, these actives ensure hydration and rejuvenation of the delicate under-eye area.

Skin brightening agents such as Niacinamide and Vitamin C have long been used to lighten the skin, including under the eyes, but the industry is always looking for innovative ways to target this tricky area.

Luminia Granatum from Vytrus Biotech is an active from Pomegranate stem cells which lightens the skin through a dual action of targeting melanin production and smoothing the skin.

Luminia Granatum from Vytrus Biotech is an active from Pomegranate stem cells

Albastim is a natural complex from Barnet derived from Safflower seeds, Sunflower, and Mulberry leaves which provides broad spectrum improvement around the eye area – improved brightness and moisturisation whilst also reducing wrinkles.

Albastim from Barnet is a natural ingredient to improve skin around the eye area

Reducing under-eye puffiness or “bags” involves addressing inflammation, for which selected peptides are highly effective. These peptides mimic the mechanism of ACE inhibitors, relaxing blood vessels by blocking an enzyme that produces angiotensin II, thereby reducing puffiness.

Improving microcirculation is another way to target under eye concerns as this helps reduce fluid build up in the area. Pinoxide is a combination of two monoterpene diols which has been shown in vivo to increase microcirculation and improve under eye appearance.

Skincare ingredient, Pinoxide, improves under eye appearance

Emulsion expertise: Co-emulsifying virtuosity

Sagging skin and wrinkles can further exacerbate under-eye concerns, making it essential to incorporate products like UGL-II PF from Barnet, which reduces sagging and softens fine lines.

Temperature regulation is key in addressing under-eye concerns, and even the type of packaging used can play a role. Metal tip designs in packaging can impart a cooling and soothing effect on the skin, while cold storage of products can enhance the sensory experience and provide additional benefits upon application. Makigreen Velvet Wax from Daito can be used to formulate emulsion sticks with a high content of water. The water present gives an immediate cooling sensation to the skin when applied.

Carst and Walker offer a number of ingredients that offer solutions to dark circles and wrinkles under the eyes

Addressing dark circles and under-eye concerns requires a multifaceted approach that includes rest, lifestyle changes and a range of effective topical remedies. By incorporating potent actives like retinol, skin brightening agents, peptides and sagging-reducing ingredients into your skincare routine, you can effectively combat dark circles and achieve a revitalised under-eye area.

Principal: Vytrus Biotech, Adeka, Barnet Products and Daito

All the ingredients mentioned in this article are available from Carst and Walker in Ireland and the United Kingdom.