Exosomes are small extracellular vesicles, also known as Ectosomes. They vary quite widely in size, ranging from 30 – 500 nm in diameter and naturally produced and secreted by all living cells (animal, plant and microorganisms). They are of vital importance in cell-to-cell communication.

Exosomes can contain a wide range of different molecules including DNA, RNA, lipids, proteins, cytokines, transcription factor receptors, heat shock proteins, enzymes, antioxidants and other bioactive compounds and metabolites. Ecosomes have highly fusogenic phospho-lipid membranes, which are essential in the transport of these compounds from cell to cell.

They are natural bioactive transporters and resistant to changing environment like pH, pressure and conductivity. They permeant to cell membranes and allow cross-kingdom communication between plant cells and human skin cells.

Functions of exosomes:

• regulation of gene transcription and translation
• survival and proliferation
• reproduction and development
• angiogenesis and wound healing
• waste management
• host-microbiome interaction and viral immunity
• balance of immune response and regulation of central and peripheral immunity
• receptor-ligand signalling
• cellular differentiation and neoplasia
• cellular migration and metastatic disease
• metabolic reprogramming and regulation

The exosome properties in cosmetics include anti-inflammatory effect, redox balance, immunomodulatory properties, healing and hydration, synthesis of extracellular matrix proteins (collagen and elastin) and skin protection. Therefore, it can be used in anti-aging, regenerating, anti-inflammatory type cosmetic products.

There are 3 types of exosomes: natural, modified and synthetic (biomimetic). They are definitely not equal and natural plant exosomes are a great option due to being stable, effective and industrially scalable.

Delivery due to its size is rapid and penetration into the stratum corneum via appendageal, intercellular or transcellular pathways.

Plant derived exosomes are more suitable for the cosmetic industry than mammalian or synthetic exosomes since they have fewer transmembrane proteins (aquaporins and chloride channels). Phosphatidic acid and phosphatidyl choline, no cholesterol present. Small molecules with therapeutic effects and low immunogenicity.

Unfortunately, exosomes from plants do not come without challenges like low yield, variability and cost to purify. BUT exosomes from plant stem cell cultures is the solution. They reach exosome levels of up to 10¹¹ exosomes/ml. Customisation is possible by guiding plant cells to produce different kinds of exosomes. These options are stable and not affected by natural factors like climate, season and region. Identification and characterization of exosomes is important to guide us to the application.

One example of such a cell culture is Centella asiatica (Centella Reversa™), based on Phyto-Peptidic fractions technology from Vytrus Biotech, where the culture conditions are such that the production of peptides and proteins are enhanced. The natural exosomes from this active ingredient protect compounds like growth factors, proteins and peptides. This in return goes hand in hand with activation of patterns of expression of cutaneous genes relating to aging, skin barrier function and hydration in keratinocytes (increased expression of type I Collagen, inhibition of elastase) and resulting in very powerful regenerative and antiwrinkle effects on the skin.

Furthermore, this material yields more than 10 000 different identified peptides and more than 1000 types of proteins. 75% of these peptides are small with chains of 6- 14 amino acids. Beyond this, Vytrus Biotech have analysed the peptide content within the exosomes themselves and found that over 500 different types of peptides (Exosomic Peptides™) were present in Centella Reversa™ exosomes, likely a reason why this material has such strong anti-aging efficacy.

Also, Vytrus Biotech has identified billions of plant exosomes within their Curcuma longa cell culture (Capilia Longa™) with hair density increase and anti-hair loss activities. A sophisticated characterisation where the biotech company discovered more Exosomic Peptides™ with hair care applications within the exosome content.

To learn more about exosomic peptides and further studies on all Vytrus actives with exosome identification, please contact Carst & Walker.