Carst & Walker is pleased to introduce two new advanced skincare actives from Mibelle Biochemistry: AmelioSense™ ; and PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes. These ingredients represent significant advancements in targeting inflammation, cellular communication and skin rejuvenation using evidence-based, functional cosmetic actives.

Understanding AmelioSense™: Targeting pyroptosis in sensitive skin

AmelioSense™ is designed to address chronic skin inflammation and redness by acting on a key cellular mechanism known as pyroptosis. Pyroptosis is a form of programmed, highly inflammatory cell death that plays a role in various skin disorders, particularly rosacea. Unlike apoptosis, pyroptosis releases pro-inflammatory mediators that worsen skin sensitivity and inflammation.

This active combines an extract of shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris), a plant known for its traditional anti-inflammatory properties, with a liposomal antioxidant complex that includes tocopherol, silymarin and carnosine. This combination targets the inflammasome and caspase-1 enzyme, which are central to the pyroptotic pathway.

Key benefits include:

• Inhibits caspase-1 activation, reducing pyroptosis and inflammatory marker expression
• Reduces visible redness and blood flow in the skin
• Soothes irritation and supports a calm, even skin tone.

Clinical evidence:

1. In vitro studies showed that shepherd’s purse extract significantly inhibits pyroptosis by reducing active caspase-1 in keratinocytes.
2. In a placebo-controlled study with 22 volunteers (aged 29–70), application of a cream with 2% AmelioSense™ resulted in a 15% reduction in redness and a 46% decrease in blood flow over 56 days.
3. Additional testing demonstrated reductions of up to 95% in pro-inflammatory markers including CXCL1, IL8 and TNF-alpha.

Recommended at 2% concentration, AmelioSense™ is suitable for:

• Calming serums for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin
• Anti-redness moisturisers
• Cleansing milks or facial mists designed for skin barrier support.

Exploring PhytoCellTec™ exosomes: Advancing cellular communication

Exosomes are nano-sized vesicles secreted by cells that serve as messengers in cell-to-cell communication. They have emerged as a significant focus in dermatological research due to their ability to influence regeneration, collagen synthesis and skin barrier function.

PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes harness the potential of plant stem cells, specifically a culture from the goji plant (Lycium barbarum). The active delivers plant-derived exosomes topically while also promoting endogenous exosome production in mesenchymal stem cells (MSCs) within the skin. This dual mechanism offers regenerative benefits both at the epidermal and dermal levels.

Key benefits include:

• Stimulates exosome production in MSCs to support matrix renewal
• Enhances collagen and elastin synthesis
• Improves facial contour, tightens skin and reduces wrinkle depth.

Clinical evidence:

1. In vitro testing showed that goji stem cell extract significantly increased exosome production in MSCs.
2. In a clinical study with 23 women (aged 41–69), a 0.4% concentration of PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes reduced wrinkle depth by 11% over 56 days.
3. Another study with 67 women reported visible improvements in facial sagging and oval face shape after 28 days.
4. Additional data indicated improvements in skin density, breast firmness and gene expression for skin barrier function.

With a recommended use level of 0.4–1%, PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes can be incorporated into:

1. Anti-ageing serums and firming creams
2. Contouring and tightening masks
3. Skin barrier recovery treatments

Addressing the market needs in South Africa

The South African skincare market is seeing growing interest in high-performance, scientifically backed actives that can address both inflammatory conditions and visible signs of ageing. Ingredients such as AmelioSense™ and PhytoCellTec™ Exosomes respond to these needs by offering multifunctional benefits backed by clinical validation. Their mechanisms enable formulators to develop next-generation skincare products that deliver proven results for sensitive, ageing and stressed skin.

Carst & Walker South Africa continues to support local formulators and cosmetic developers with access to cutting-edge technologies and globally recognised actives.

To discuss formulation opportunities or request a sample, please contact our team.

Principal: Mibelle Biochemistry